Hanging floral arrangements are everywhere right now, and they are a really beautiful way to show off flowers. They are perfect for events such as a bridal or baby showers, or a special birthday or dinner party.
Most of the hanging arrangements I have seen out there are either in floral oasis or not in water at all. For me, it was important to find a way to have the stems in water so that the flowers would stay fresh longer. I don’t use oasis because it contains a lot of chemicals. I also wanted to be able to use more delicate flowers and not have to limit myself to just sturdy flowers. We created a chandelier-style structure using floral water tubes and as a result, the arrangement we made lasted for days rather than hours.
- Decorative punched sheet metal with holes big enough to push through a stem (we got ours at Lowe’s) - 4 pieces of simple wood trim (we used salvaged wood) - Tin snips - Hammer - Nails - Tack - Strong twine or rope Alternatively, attach the sheet metal to an old frame if you don’t feel like building one!
For flower arranging:
- 3” floral water tubes with rubber caps (the type we used is made of recycled material and can be found online) - Sharp floral clippers - Seasonal flowers (we used lisianthius, ranunculus, blushing bride and viburnum) - Vases with water for your flowers + to fill water tubes - Clear soda, such as 7-up (not diet) - Saw horse legs or two chairs to balance the frame on - Strong twine, wire or rope for hanging the arrangement
1. Start by building the frame. We built ours with scrap salvaged wood, but if you have an old frame, that is perfect, too! The easiest way to make the frame is to overlap the wood at the corners and nail the wood together. Then cut your sheet metal with tin snips, this is easy but keep in mind that the edges can be a bit sharp. Attach the metal to the frame with furniture tack, it will easily go through the sheet metal. Make sure everything is stable/sturdy enough for hanging.
2. Condition your flowers by removing all of the foliage and cutting them with sharp floral clippers. Immediately put them in clean vases with water. You can add a dash of clear soda, like 7-up, to help the flowers last a bit longer. Let the flowers drink for an hour or so.
3. Balance your sheet metal frame between two saw horse legs (or two chairs or tables). Make sure it is stable.
4. Fill the floral tubes with water by dunking them in a small bucket or vase. Attach the rubber caps to the tubes.
5. Take a flower and push the stem through an appropriate hole in the sheet metal. Once your stem is through the metal at a height you like, push it through the hole in the rubber cap and into the floral tube (above the metal sheet).
We started by putting our flowers in the middle, then worked our way outwards. For an ombré effect, start from the left and move to your right. Hang each flower at different lengths so that each bloom is showing and not hiding another bloom.
Only push the stems halfway so the end of the stem stays in water, avoiding the air pocket above the water surface. Have the tubes filled to the brim, some water will squirt out when you push the stem into the tube. The water does not leak once the tubes and stems are in place/upside down.
What is extra great about this frame/holder is that you can easily move your flowers around by pulling them out and pushing them back in another spot. Just be careful with more delicate stems!
6. Once you are pleased with your design, thread a piece of strong twine or rope through the corners of the frame and hang it from a couple of hooks in the ceiling!
Well conditioned flowers will last for at least one full day in normal temperature, the one we made lasted for three.
*** Special Thank You to Grace Bonney for sharing this fabulous DIY project with us.
-This will not work with very flimsy materials (such as chiffon, jersey, costume satin etc.) you need fabric with at least some natural stiffness
-These get pretty heavy so they should be made with a fitted waistband and a zipper + snap closure. Elastics will fall down on you D:
-This requires making at least 25 yards or ruffles, which means over 150 yards of hemming so…uh…set some time aside for making this.
-If you have a question about this, I’d be happy to answer, but for the love of god don’t ask it on anon.
Keep in mind that circle skirts have really long hems, and when laid flat are, quite literally, a circle. This will probably equate to being more work and volume then you want.
For this I ended up cutting a half circle skirt, three inches shorter then I wanted my finished petti/skirt to be. This is a BASE, it will not be seen, and should be made from a somewhat sturdy material that will not stretch or tear.
I cut strips of a heavy tulle netting (the scratchy awful type, not the pretty flimsy stuff used on princess skirts) until I had ten four inch by one yd strips. These get sewn together until I have one long strip, then ruffles get sewn onto the bottom.
The strip gets folded in half (right sides together) and sewn across the seam where the ruffles were attached.
Then the tulle gets gathered down to the size of my skirt hem and sewn into place. It will look like this.
Then repeat but with longer tulle! This time I used eight inch strips which were obviously sewn four inches above my four inch layer.
Now you have a lovely A-line petticoat that just needs a zipper…but that’s not what we’re making here. We want a cupcake shaped petti!
So that requires one more layer that starts from your waist. Measure from the waist of your skirt to where the tulle ends and add a seam allowance for ruffles. For the length, multiply your waist measurement by four.
Add the ruffle, and then sew something over the seam to hide fraying. In this case I used really cheap lace.
Then gather that down and sew it into place.
Now the ruffles should lay somewhat evenly but they are kind of all over the place.
you can fix that by taking a very large needle and sewing through all the layers of tulle until they are compacted down a bit
And then you *can* sew a hoop into the petti so it will never deflate! All that really requires is hand sewing hooping wire on which isn’t very complicated at all.
Uhmm and then the overskirt is just gathered circle skirts + a ruffle!
I think adding a waistband and zipper is pretty straight forward so i’ll leave that to you.
CONGRATULATIONS ON YOUR NEW RUFFLY MASTERPIECE!
More info on how the skirt part was made will be up here soon.